2015年6月9日星期二

Lcd problem

I've got a laptop here, an Acer Aspire 5735, with a bad backlight. So far I've replaced the inverter, cable, as well as the actual LCD, and the backlight still is not working.
I don't know a whole lot about replacing backlights in laptop LCDs, but I doubt this one is broken. I've tried other LCDs with the same connector and even those didn't work right. I have a strong feeling that a fuse may be blown on the motherboard for handling backlight voltage. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience replacing these fuses. Do I need to be trained with microsoldering to replace them? Identifying them should be easy enough, blown fuses stick out like a sore thumb.
Maybe I've been lucky then, but I use ebay quite often for parts and don't have problems like that, but you have to be very careful and stick with well-rated sellers, etc.
Honestly, it's an Acer, one of the most flimsy computers on the market, I'm sure you noticed it while working on it, they're better off replacing it with something.. not acer. I've had acer come not fully assembled and/or DOA more than any brand. Their components aren't bad, intel boards, etc, but case quality is laughable, lowest standard of quality I've ever seen.
And it wasn't ESD because PC SMD's aren't that sensitive anymore, and what is, has proper protection, phones and tablets are different, but in PC's the chances of ESD are tiny these days.
Motherboard fuses rarely have visible signs of being blown out. Only way I know to find the faulty component is doing a continuity check with a multimeter. The fuses I've dealt with tend to be flat rectangles, and are usually bigger than most other components around it. So far, I have had no luck finding the right replacement parts, but I wish you luck.

I blew a backlight fuse once (for an LED screen without inverter) and just bridged it with a tiny ball of solder. Not recommended safety-wise but it was a bodge that got an extra 6 months out of a dying laptop I had hanging around.
Since then I always take the battery out for any screen replacement.
I've been tinkering around with this laptop for almost 2 days now and can not figure out the issue. I'm hoping someone here can help. Here is a link to a picture of what the display is producing, Sorry for potato quality, disregard the vertical lines.
It is a Toshiba Satellite A505-S69803 running Windows 7 64 bit, I purchased the laptop around 5 years ago and has ran like a champ until now. The graphics are integrated if that helps any.
The symptoms are horizontal flickering and rolling lines, it looks as though the display is repeating itself. Sometimes there's only a few lines then other times the screen is almost completely full to the point the video is indecipherable, it seems to be all random with no color distortion. The problem persists in safe mode and bios as well.
So far I have updated drivers, deleted/reinstalled drivers, reseated the LCD cable at both ends, reseated inverter cable, installed new LCD cable, tilted screen all the way up and down with no changes in performance. I'm currently using the laptop with an external monitor through the VGA port, the HDMI port works as well.
I believe I've narrowed it down to the LCD screen, inverter, or a motherboard issue since the graphics card is integrated. I'm leaning more towards the motherboard issue since a bad inverter usually leaves you with a dimmed or blank screen and a bad LCD usually distorts colors.
Is it possible for the graphics chip set to malfunction on the laptop monitor but display fine on the external monitors?
I found an HP DV2500 (DV2660SE) sitting next to the trash, along with a box of misc computer stuff. The charger was in the box, so I grabbed it, and the laptop and took it home. When I plugged it in, it booted to bios, but was missing the hard drive and back plate covers.
As it happens, I have 3 dv6000s that I've collected for parts over the years, which are the same laptop, except with a 15.6" screen, instead of the DV2500's 14" screen.
Over the last month, I ordered the backplate covers and hard drive cage from amazon. Everything finally arrived. I pulled a hard drive and ram from one of the DV6000s, and reassembled the laptop. The laptop appears to work. total cost for a backup laptop $25.00.
I am currently installing windows, but the screen has a serious yellow tint. I have seen this before on old LCDs. I have searched google, but can't find a reason why the screen would be yellow.
My thinking is that either the inverter or the backlight are going bad.
Any ideas? My googlefu appears to be weak, because all I can find are people suggesting that I check my drivers, which it can't be, because even in BIOS the LCD has a serious yelloe tint.

Hey tech, Since this morning my monitor has become pinkish, dimmer and grainier on the left side, like half the horizontal lines are missing or something (FullHD resolution, so it's very noticeable with small text, which is unreadable). I'm thinking it might be close to dying, just wanted your input on this. Also, it's flickering from time to time, so maybe something wrong with the inverter board/power circuits?
It's a LED backlit Philips screen, FWIW.
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2015年6月8日星期一

Touch screen and display monitor

Recently got a Planar Touch Screen LCD ( PCT2265), but as it turns out, it only works as a touch screen and that means that connecting a mouse or keyboard disables the touch feature. I hope I'm asking this in the right place, so is there any way someone can recommend a Touch screen that accepts different inputs without disabling the touch functionality?
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Why does the sound have to go through your monitor? I assume that the monitor is HDMI and your laptop is sending both audio and video over that connection.
You should still be able to connect to the headphone/line out on the laptop, just be sure to select the correct playback device in your audio properties.
If Windows 7, right click the speaker icon in the taskbar, select "Playback Devices". You should see the default playback device listed as "Digital Audio (HDMI)", right click another device (likely labeled "Speakers" or "Headphones") and select that as your default playback device.
If you are serious in to music production, I highly recommend you get an outboard audio interface, my go to is the Focusrite Scarlett Series. If you have no need for balanced output or things like MIDI, will work just fine.
I just bought a LG 27MP75. It's just a big LCD monitor, so I can have a bigger screen and work (music production). Normally I have my speakers hooked up to my stereo receiver, and stereo receiver plugged right into my laptop headphone jack, and everything's golden.
Now, instead, it has to plug into my monitor, and there's this TERRIBLE his / background noise coming from it, and anytime the bass hits it causes distortion. I've tested this out on my speakers and headphones.
Is there any way around this? Or do I have to return this? I'm asking here in case any audiophiles use LCD's and have run into this problem. Maybe I caught a bad batch? Or this is the norm?
Screens usually put out around 5500k light, which is close to the color of the sky on an average clear day. This is so that it matches the fluorescent lighting used in offices all over the world.
"Daylight" like that can keep us awake and alert even late at night. You can use an app called f.lux that will change the color temperature of your screen over the course of the day, reducing the amount of blue as it gets later in the day,.
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2015年6月7日星期日

LCD about Hero4 Silver vs. Hero4 Black

I am buying my gf a GoPro for her birthday and I am between the Hero4 Silver and Hero4 Black; the debate seems to boil down to the LCD screen functionality.
Do the factory LCD on the Silver and the LCD BacPac on the Black both lose touch-functionality after going below 3-feet deep? I understand that the screen will still work if you go deeper than that, but I am curious if the Silver's screen will still allow you to change settings below 3-feet as I know the BacPac for the Black does not.
If her computer is not very powerful (a laptop with an i5 and poor graphics card), is it even worth getting the Black or would she need a more powerful rig before even considering the Black over the Silver?
Also, I keep hearing people tell me that the Hero4 Silver does not have Wifi; is that true?
Thanks for any help you can offer me!
Unless she's going to be using the videos professionally, there's no reason to get the black. The H4S does everything the Black can, minus a couple of the higher end things like 4k30fps and 1080 120fps and it has the LCD which comes in really handy for framing the shots and looking at the files without connecting with the phone. H4S definitely has WiFi, I can attest to that as well. Using the GoPro Studio, I wouldn't worry about editing too much. Unless you're going to be watching all of your videos on a 4k TV, I would save the $100 and get more accessories/mounts with that instead.
The only thing that I can speak to is that the Silver DOES have wifi. My laptop is an i5 with integrated graphics and the videos play fine, editing is somewhat slow. In my experience, videos will not play over USB, you must copy them first.
In my opinion, I would not buy the 4 silver... the 3+ black is pretty much the same thing minus the lcd screen. I would get the 4 black even if you're not going to use the 4K right away. You can still film 1080p at 120fps which is twice the frame rate as the silver. Also, the silver only does 4K at 15fps which will end up looking choppy. B&H Photo has a deal right now where you can get a free LCD touchback with the purchase of a 4 black... this is what I would get if I were buying right now... also no tax on that.
Not sure about your questions about the lcd functionality at depths... sorry.
If you have the lcd running the whole time then it probably drains the battery fairly quick. However, you don't need to have it running the whole time, you can turn it off and on to just use it when you want (compose shots, review footage, etc.)
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Canon 85mm lens good

Hey guys, i am about to purchase some 85mm lens by canon. i was looking at the 1.8f. however, as i made the search, i noticed there are two 1.8 options. one is $349 and the other is 365. they have different serial numbers...thats all i really see... am i missing something? 

 lens owned: 

-canon 50mm 1.8 
-canon 50mm 1.4 
-canon 60mm (macro lens which are worthless to me...) 
-canon 135mm soft lens 
-canon 18-55mm 

i want to upgrade from the 50mm to the 85mm. I've been shooting with those for 4 years. time to move on:)
3M Sticker Tape Adhesive Repairing For Touch Screen LCD 2mm

 All decent photographic equipment; cameras & lenses have their "own" individual serial number. The serial number is used for identifying purposes. 1. Such as repair: the serial number denotes which lens is YOURS because you listed it on the letter you sent with the lens. 2. The serial number appears (or should appear) on your list of photo equipment you took out insurance on! 
Now the serial number difference has been solved for you, the next important thing especilly for a buyer is the quality rating of the lens. When you purchase from people like B&H Photo or Adorama camera shops in New York they give rating to each used item as to its condition. So what you are missing to use your words is the condition of each lens and the fact that retails can & do set their own prices. Now the next thing to consider is the plac seling the item: Is their rating good as a Amazon seller? I am with contirbutor "retiredPhil". The $349 lens is said to be "new" and hasa USA & Canada warranty (as long as you live in one of these places) I too would make this my choice! 
5 inch LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN33 Innolux Ecra
The most important question is do you need a 85 mm lens? 

Do you have a full frame Canon camera, a 6D, 5D or 1D camera? 

Do you know what a new Canon EF 85 mm f/1.8 costs new? $420. The two links seem to list two different new price lists for the same lens. 

Of course the lenses have different serial numbers. Each lens has a unique serial number. 

Different sellers from time to time sell products for prices less than the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) 

I would be more concerned that one or both of those lenses are grey market or refurbished ... something that should be stated in the Amazon adverts. 
5 inch LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN34 Innolux
If you do buy this lens, a minor $16 difference in cost is really not much of a big deal

 There's no such thing as a Canon Mark 3. 
Two of the lenses that you have are not even compatible with any of Canon's cameras that have Mark 3 versions. (1D Mark 3, 1DS Mark 3, 5D Mark 3) so it's really not clear what you own. 

And going from 50mm to 85mm is not an upgrade. It's just a different focal length. 

But yeah, they're the same lens.

 Those two lenses are the same lens - two sellers, two slightly different descriptions of the same lens, and two different prices. Amazon is a market place, everyone selling stuff on Amazon has their own prices. 

Every single product in the entire world, that has serial numbers, has a different serial number for each item made. Perhaps you live on a different planet? 
Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN33 & AT050TN34 V.1 5-inch
What on earth makes you think an 85mm is an "upgrade" to a 50mm lens? These lenses have completely different focal lengths, one is not better than the other! It would seem you are clueless. And by the way there is no such camera as a Mark 3. You missed out the model number - is it a 1D, 5D, 6D? 

"I've been shooting with those for 4 years. time to move on" - I have lenses which I have owned for 32 years, and which I still use. Lenses can last a lifetime. It's not "time to move on". It's time to learn what your lenses are for, and the difference between different focal lengths, and their uses. 

"lets not be idiots here" - seriously!?
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Camera lens

Looking to buy a camera and lens combo for £600 or so, and was advised by a friend to get a wide lens if I want to take pictures of landscapes etc. 
I know very little, basically nothing about cameras so have a few questions. 
I have been looking at the Nikon D3300 which is around £389, and hadn't factored in the wide lens... 
My friend recommended the sigma 10-20mm which is around £250... 
My questions are, given my situation, what are my best options? With the body itself, there is the slightly more expensive D5500 and I imagine slightly cheaper versions - is it worth getting a cheaper/more expensive body if it means a better lens? What sort of "trade-off" between body and lens do I want? 
The kit lens on all dSLRs start at wide angle. 18mm is good enough for some landscape shooting. If you want more, the 10-20mm will do great at around 12-20mm. Lower than that is fisheye and the extreme distortion may no longer be good for landscape shots.

While your friend is correct about getting a wide angle lens, the lens itself will not fit into your budget. 

You need an entry level camera like the D3300 or D5500 with the standard 18-55 mm lens. This lens is the one you will use most while you learn how to use your camera and learn the fundamentals of photography. This process an take a year or more depending upon how much time and effort you put into it. 

Yes, a wide angle zoom like the 10-20 mm Sigma or 11-16 mm Tokina may fit into your budget, but spend some time getting used to your camera before spending any more money on lenses. 

The Nikon D5500 has a feature that many people like and that is the fully articulated LCD screen. Good to use when your camera is low to the ground, high above your head or mounted on a telescope or microscope. 

The D5500 also has more focusing points (39 vs 11 on the D3300) These extra focus points can come in handy if you are shooting sports or other action. 
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The D5500 also has built-in WiFi and a built-in interval timer, necessary if you ever intend to shoot time lapse video and can connect to your smart phone. 

When I got my first digital SLR, I had to save my pennies a while longer before I could budget for my Nikkor 12-24 mm lens. Within about ten months, I was able to buy that lens and it is with me all the time.

Consider the body to be the part that allows you to take photos in a larger variety of situations. Consider the lens as part of that equation as well, but in terms of sharpness, it is the lens and not the body that affects sharpness. 
Sigma's 10-20mm is a good lens for landscapes, architecture and interior shots too. The D3300 comes in a kit, but it might also be available body only. If so, then getting the body only allows you to choose the specific lens or lenses that you need. Most who get entry-level DSLRs get the kit. While the kit lens is just okay for general shooting, there are others that are best for certain things. That's where the Sigma 10-20mm comes in. It would be a good additional lens, but not a good choice as your one and only lens. Nikon makes many zooms that are optically superior to the kit lenses. Go to photozone.de to see how sharp each lens is. 
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So go with whichever body provides the capabilities that you need to get the shot, and get the lens for the type of shots you want to take. If, for example you want to do sports or wildlife photos, then will not only need a camera body with a better continuous AF than that of the Dxxx series, but the lenses that allow to get in close to. Landscapes are different. Mountains don't move, si servo AF is useless, but having more megapixels and a ultra wide zoom is the way to go. Portraits, like landscapes, do not require serv. AF, but a good telephoto with a fairly large aperture. So a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 are great options and the body doesn't really matter much. 
As a beginner, it common to start of with basic gear for general photography. Once you gain experience, you will then know if and when it is time to upgrade to something else.

I often get crap for recommending that people buy used cameras and lenses, but in my opinion, there is no point in buying a new camera if you have a tight budget. The D3300 truthfully doesn't give you a huge amount of bang for your buck, and there's no way you can afford an optically decent wide angle lens on top of it. 
MPB photographic is a great website for used gear. I've done a check for you, and here are a list of potential combinations for you; 
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-Nikon D90, excellent condition, shutter count 22,368 (virtually nothing), £214 
-Tamron 10-24mm Nikon fit lens, excellent condition, £229 

or 

-Canon 50D, excellent condition, shutter count 28,059, £229 
-Canon EF-S 10-18mm, near mint condition, £189 

and with either package, you still have a little money left over for other accessories. 

Point being, there are options out there if you want good gear on a budget. You shouldn't settle for less when you can get more-you just need to know where to look.
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Inverters

The frequency inverters use for control the motors and the DC/AC invertes using for convert the DC voltage to AC voltage. 

Inverters convert DC electricity into AC electricity. Solar panels (and most small wind turbines) produce DC electricity. That electricity is used to charge a battery bank in off-grid systems or sent directly to an grid tie inverter which feeds the electricity directly to the electric grid. We offer some inverters which are capable of both working as an Off-Grid and an On-grid inverter.
Garmin Nuvi 1410 1410T FULL LCD Screen Display

Hybrid Inverters 
These inverters are primarily used for grid-tie purposes but also have the added feature that they provide backup power to your home / office when the electric utility fails. 

Off-Grid Inverters 
These inverters are principally meant to be used with solar for a home or business totally disconnected from the electric utility company. They can also be used for providing emergency backup power to homes that currently use the power from an electric company. Inverters with the built-in AC charger option are particularly well suited to providing seamless backup power. 

Grid-Tie Inverters 
Inverters which are connected to your electric utility company and do not use a battery bank. These "grid-tie" systems tend to be lower in cost due to the fact that they don't use batteries. However, if the utility company's power goes down then your system will also shut down. If blackouts are frequent in your location or you want to have backup power, consider purchasing an inverter that is Hybrid. 
5-Inch Innolux AT050TN34 V.1 LCD Screen Display Ecran TFT

 A devise used to convert direct current into alternating current.

 Inverter - It is used for saving a power in battery. Inverter are very useful for tamilnadu especially chennai.

 In terms of electrical power, an inverter converts direct current (DC - as in batteries) to alternating current (AC - as in what is present at electrical outlets). 

An inverter would be used in a car, for example, to run an AC-powered "appliance" (laptop computer for example) in the absence of an AC outlet.
Garmin Nuvi 1450 1450T & 1460 1460T Full LCD 
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2015年6月3日星期三

Help me for screen

I've cracked my screen and after looking for the web, I decided to do at my own risk. Now, I've seen a lot of people complaining about buying counterfeit screens at amazon/ebay and they face light bleed, different color or textures.
edit: I've contacted the seller asking if it was really OEM and they responded with: "This item is OEM part,that means the LCD display and the frame is original,and with grade A touch screen. So it of great quality and best price.Our purchase team will test each item well before shipping.".

I tried to squeeze it all back together and the screen ended up cracking quite easily (very cheap product) so I couldn't even return it and accepted the loss. Hopefully the suggested one from Amazon from above is good, let me know how it works out as I may be in the market for another one.

 I've tried to buy from EtradeSupply but their shipping cost to Portugal (where I live) is about the same price of the product, which means that I would have to spend almost the same that LG is asking for the repair.
Well, what happened to your product? Have you tried to return the item?
I'm also Portuguese and ordered a new screen + frame + back cover from Etrade Supply after catastrophic damage to the whole thing around this time last year. I don't remember the price exactly for the whole shebang, but I can say the screen and other parts are top notch, and I've had zero problems whatsoever with them. If you want peace of mind, buying from them is probably your best bet.
It looks like they may ship to you if you purchase directly. At least Portugal is an option for estimating shipping. Looks like about the same price as the one you found on eBay though, so not sure if its any help.
Also, I ripped my front camera cable when putting the motherboard back in, so be very careful. I had to physically disconnect the front camera to get the camera app to be ale to connect to my rear camera again, but now I have a fully functional N5 minus the front camera, which I never use anyway.
I this installed one a few days ago and it seems perfect so far. It shipped from China but I got it in about 1 week (about 3 weeks ahead of forecast).
I took a chance on one that has 2 horrible ratings and it was complete crap. Very low brightness level and flaws all over the place.
For sure go with one that has good ratings and get one that has a frame.
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Electronic projects

I've made several projects with Arduinos, and for my latest project, I decided to buy a 128x64 LCD (not OLED) from China. With previous LCDs, they always took care of the hard stuff for you. They had a separate chip on board (probablynot a shift register, but an MCU - thanks. that allows you to communicate via serial, and you only needed 2 pins to do it. This time, though, it's just a  screen, and I have no idea how to use it.
Obviously, this is now beyond my skill level, so my question is how can I make this thing work with fewer pins? I plan on attaching this to a project on an Uno, so I need to reduce the number of pins this screen will take up.
I'm not asking you to do my homework for me, though. I really do want to learn more about whatever I need to know to make this work, so if you can suggest some reading, or other similar projects where someone explains how this is done, that would be greatly appreciated.
After all the projects I've done with Arduino, I really want to get into more advanced stuff, so I figured this would be a good first step towards learning more about what's going on behind the black curtain, so to speak. I've never really dug into library files, and I've only done a few small analog electronics projects, so I'm hoping this will be a good stepping stone to getting there.
When I got my degree we did not learn how to read data sheets. You just had to figure it out yourself. Make no mistake about it, finding, reading and understanding data sheets is an important part of "low level" engineering. As for finding a library somewhere on the internet and blindly using it may work at some companies and others absolutely not.
If you want to pursue embedded design and programming you probably want to get away from the Arduino software platform and start coding in straight C or C++ using the development tools from Atmel.search in your state with the keyword "arduino". 0 hits in my state. Then search on "embedded". Dozens of hits pop up.
Just to learn, I've taken a few components that I use (chips, mainly) and for which I had a library, and started to figure out the datasheet and see how it matches up with the library. For one of them I've rewritten the library, as the one I had was just a bunch of (badly written) functions and wasn't that easy to use, so I made one that works as a class. I specifically did not look at the original library again when I started programming and used the datasheet for that.
Once you've seen enough of those, I suppose you'll get better at it. Some datasheets totally suck though. I still have a lot to learn.
I have to say that the software was the easiest part for me as I'm a software developer, but even if you aren't it'd be another chance to learn.
Sometimes there are tutorials too that explain a lot more than just how to use it.
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GPS talking

So when it was first unveiled at last year's I/O, one of the things they underscored was that Android Auto was deeply integrated with the hardware of the car itself - you're used to using your phone in the car for Google Maps, but why not be able to harness that nice big navigation LCD and the powerful external GPS antenna on your roof?
How much of that is actually a reality here? I understand that it's primarily a video feed / screen cast coming from the phone, but there's clearly some two-way communication happening as well to enable things like touch screen input, the voice button on the steering wheel, etc. Is it taking advantage of the car's GPS antenna? Is it possible to get OBD2-type data via Android Auto, enabling something like Dash or Automatic without the need for a bluetooth OBD dongle? Seems like that'd be a pretty big win for such apps if so.
I frequently baffle customers with PC-problems by the turning it off-and-on again trick level 2: instead of just shutting down their PC and powering it on again, I'll recommend to disconnect the power cord, push the power button, reconnect and then power it on again. This seems illogical to most people, but it makes all capacitors in the machine to drain any residual charge, which puts it in a (more) defined state.
The "have you turned it off and back on?" works for sewing machines, too…much to their users frustration. I’ve had this conversation twice in the last week-two different users, two completely different sewing machines.
Person A brings her machine in, saying that her embroidery function is out of step between its halves; that is, the right half of the ducky/flower/whatever is correct, but the left half is mangled, significantly offset from the right half, or nonexistent. Her machine has an LCD screen, meaning it’s computerized, and she tells me she’s shut it off and turned it on-even unplugged it-several times now, with no luck.
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I test-sewed it and got the same offset, mangled daisy. I unthreaded it, turned it off, unplugged it, turned it back to on and let it sit a minute. Then I did everything in reverse-turned it to off, plugged it in, turned it on, rethreaded it. Ta da! A nice, non-mutant daisy. I ran through each of the stitch charts, checking to see that I wasn’t missing a step motor gone wonky, and everything was fine. Total time: less than 10 minutes. I explained, and Person A sighed, laughed, and left, shaking her head.
Person B brought her machine in, complaining of major thread barf. (Where the thread turns into a giant wad of loops and tangles on the back of the fabric. There are several causes, but the most common one is 'because'.) Her machine is a cool old Morse 4400, looks like the dashboard of your granddad’s Buick, and is about as far from computerized as you get. I test-sewed it, and got the same wad of tangle. I unthreaded it, took the bobbin case out, put the bobbin case back in, then rethreaded the upper thread path. Test-sewed it again, and it was fine. Ran it through its various stitches, just in case, still fine. Total time: less than 10 minutes. I explained, and Person B sighed, laughed, and left, shaking her head.
Why did either work? In person A’s case, what made the difference was that I shut it off before I rethreaded it. There are sensors in the thread path that detect the presence of thread (for things like setting thread tension), and don’t lose their setting when you shut the machine off. By unthreading it while it was off, and then turning it on, it registered that I was rethreading it and reset all of its internal settings, which solved the issue.
In Person B’s case, who knows? Maybe she didn’t hold her tongue right. Maybe it was my mighty tech aura-that happens too. There are no sensors, and you can see the entire thread path. I’ve seen sewing machine manuals from the 1880’s that tell you your first troubleshooting step should always be to rethread the machine. Person B is certainly experienced enough to have tried it herself before she came to me. But sewing machines are still just machines, and sometimes, for no apparent reason, they just go kablooey. And sometimes, also for no apparent reason, rethreading makes them behave.
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Repairing a DVD with a broken capacitor

a dude i know, who had a computer shop, closed it, so he told me about giving to me some stuff he had there. Well, lot of crap, lot of broken stuff, but also some useful things. Some things working, some of them quite modern, some of them working but quite older (some Pentium 2 computers... and well, older computer with the typical flexible floopy disks).
So some of those things were DVD players. About... 5 or 6. Indeed one was working, i gave it to my grandma. The rest, doesn't work, some of them can't read DVDs, and others just don't turn on. So i saw 2 of them that can read USBs and SDs and also have DVB-T, so i opened them and i saw, on both of them, the typical exploded capacitor... on the power supply. So i replaced it for another and now it works :D
I made a crazy shit, instead of just welding it to the power supply board, i welded it to a random board i found somewere and then attached 2 cables between it and the old, broken capacitor contacts. Basically, I located the broken capacitor, removed it, and placed a new one of the same specs that the broken one (capacity, voltage and electrolytic).
I know this is a very common issue and very known to be solved, but... well, just for sharing something over here, i saw some people doing the same with more stuff... so I though, let's repair more broken shit I have. I also' got 3 broken LCD screens (with luck, they might have broken capacitors to be replaced :B) and lots of not-working motherboards, some of them also with exploded capacitors.
This is a very common problem that can be easily solved with just basic electronic knowledge... or maybe even without them, just identifying the broken capacitor (or capacitors), identifying the capacity of it (on F) and the voltage (theorically they can be replaced with other capacitors with more voltage), and respect the polarity (since most of these capacitors are electrolytic, and they have a + and - sides, identified on the capacitor with a vertical bar with ------- on it).
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The best camera for taking selfies and pictures of people

Nikon and Canon and several other brands make good cameras at various price levels. You presumably need one with a "front screen" so that you can line up your selfies well.
 LMS350GF12 -015 LMS350GF12 -REV0 LCD Screen Display

The Canon G7x could be a good choice. Excellent image quality. The LCD flips up for selfies. Tilted up 90 degrees it can be good for photographing others without looking too obvious that you are taking their pictures. Lack of a remote control connection is a shortcoming.

With a 1/1.7" sensor, the Nikon P7800 is better than bridge cameras, not as good as the super-premiums like the G7x. Articulating LCD, 28-200mm zoom range, hotshoe, and compatible with infrared remote.

A DSLR with articulating LCD could be okay. A bit heavy and awkward for selfies. A left-handed hold could work. A wrist strap is recommended. Op/Tech USA makes one suitable for DSLR's.
 The Nikon D5500 is probably the lightest DSLR body that has the articulating LCD. 

LCD Screen Display For Garmin Nuvi 1350 1390 1350T 1390T 1690 4.3-inch TFT( Vervion 1--LQ043T1DH01) 
 Remember to use peripheral vision to see the LCD, but look into the lens if you want to look like you are looking at the person looking at the picture.

It's against the law to shoot people with a cannon , except in North Korea...
I think Walmart sells a selfie phone just for that purpose.
If you're not really interested in photography , you won't need anything better...

There's no one best for everyone. I've known people to get rid of their $3,000 DSLR for a cheaper one from another brand because of a feature or two that is critical for their needs. You state that you want to take selfies and pictures of people. Well, that's something that just about any camera will do, and do well.

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 In your case, we can lower the number of options by looking at which are not good for your needs. For example, you really shouldn't even consider a DSLR for taking selfies. It's far too big and bulky. You can also eliminate any camera that doesn't have a fully-articulated LCD screen which is a must-have feature for selfies.
Next, since you want to take pictures of people, what makes one better than another? In short, it's the size of the sensor. As the sensor size increases or decreases, so does the required focal length of the lens for any given angle of view. This change has an affect on image quality in that as you decrease the size of the sensor, your lenses become physically shorter. For example on a camera with a sensor of only 1/2.3" (bridge cameras and smartphones) a 20mm lens has the same angle of view as a 112mm lens on a full-frame 35mm format sensor. So what's the big deal? As the focal length of the lens decreases, the area that you get in focus (Depth of Field) increases. Therefore, someone using a a 1/2.3" format camera will find it impossible to blur out backgrounds which is what you really want to do when taking people pictures.
So this narrows your options to those cameras with a larger sensor (buy the largest one you can afford) and one with a fully-articulated screen. Nikon and Canon do make great stuff, but that's not to say that they make the best of all types and models at all price points. Sony, Pentax, Olympus, and Fuji are also fantastic cameras. All of these 6 brands have cameras that will be the best for certain users. 

Garmin Nuvi 3790 T 3760T 3750 3790LTM 4.3" Full LCD Screen 

Your criteria of selfies and people is rather narrow. What else do want to do? Do you need exposure control? With cameras that have a 1/1.7" or smaller sensor, you tend to not get exposure control as these are typically simple point and shoot cameras. However, once you're in the Micro 4/3, APS-C formats, then you're getting a much more serious camera with far more control over the image-making process, much better image quality too. I think that the Micro 4/3 format could be the perfect blend of control, image quality, and size too. In M43 cameras, Panasonic and Olympus are your best options.

I'll agree with some of what Frank and Ned say. The DSLR is a good way to go Vs a phone; picture quality is way better. (I guess you could consider a small point a shoot but you would not be able to use the LCD screen as much so less you NEED a very small item, put a pin in that idea)

Large sensor is good but full size is just a LOT to spend; the smaller formats will give you a lot of bang for the buck.

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 I got a DSLR with an articulated LCD screen and it is great for selfies and covert shots. I had used a Hasselblad so I did not have to "look like I was taking a photo" in the direction of someone, but that old thing just made too much noise and what are yea going to do with 120 film today.....so that LCD screen is great to help you now put a camera in a way that it does not make it look like you are taking a photo and/or just get a great angle.

Another item that you may will wish to have is a GOOD zoom lens; I got one that went from 18 to 200mm and it will allow you get that close selfie with the wide angle and has enough flexibility to compose just about any group on the street if that is what you are talking about with pictures of people. Maybe think about a 10 mm fisheye as a next lens; it will be wild and wide for hand held group shots, selfies, and let you get a lot in the field with you in the foreground. Granted you have to see what it looks like as it is not for everyone.

LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel For A050FW03 (400) V4 V.4 5-inch TFT 
 One other thing the Nikon has is the ability to pick faces and focus on them in an auto mode. This is good for focus and exposure.

When I've got the Nikon D5300, it is going out of production and the D5500 as Ned noted would be a good pick. However, I've got no clue what you have as personal needs and some time in a store with a good salesman would give you some real world knowledge and the feel in the hand need to make a confident choice. I had been a lifelong Canon guy and only went with Nikon last fall when picking based on some features and what I hoped was an open mind but I still feel a bit of a brand trader.

The best choice is one you make the features I suggest may be found on a number of brands.    
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