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2015年6月8日星期一

Touch screen and display monitor

Recently got a Planar Touch Screen LCD ( PCT2265), but as it turns out, it only works as a touch screen and that means that connecting a mouse or keyboard disables the touch feature. I hope I'm asking this in the right place, so is there any way someone can recommend a Touch screen that accepts different inputs without disabling the touch functionality?
Touch screen Digitizer For TomTom Go 4CQ01

Why does the sound have to go through your monitor? I assume that the monitor is HDMI and your laptop is sending both audio and video over that connection.
You should still be able to connect to the headphone/line out on the laptop, just be sure to select the correct playback device in your audio properties.
If Windows 7, right click the speaker icon in the taskbar, select "Playback Devices". You should see the default playback device listed as "Digital Audio (HDMI)", right click another device (likely labeled "Speakers" or "Headphones") and select that as your default playback device.
If you are serious in to music production, I highly recommend you get an outboard audio interface, my go to is the Focusrite Scarlett Series. If you have no need for balanced output or things like MIDI, will work just fine.
I just bought a LG 27MP75. It's just a big LCD monitor, so I can have a bigger screen and work (music production). Normally I have my speakers hooked up to my stereo receiver, and stereo receiver plugged right into my laptop headphone jack, and everything's golden.
Now, instead, it has to plug into my monitor, and there's this TERRIBLE his / background noise coming from it, and anytime the bass hits it causes distortion. I've tested this out on my speakers and headphones.
Is there any way around this? Or do I have to return this? I'm asking here in case any audiophiles use LCD's and have run into this problem. Maybe I caught a bad batch? Or this is the norm?
Screens usually put out around 5500k light, which is close to the color of the sky on an average clear day. This is so that it matches the fluorescent lighting used in offices all over the world.
"Daylight" like that can keep us awake and alert even late at night. You can use an app called f.lux that will change the color temperature of your screen over the course of the day, reducing the amount of blue as it gets later in the day,.

2015年6月7日星期日

Camera lens

Looking to buy a camera and lens combo for £600 or so, and was advised by a friend to get a wide lens if I want to take pictures of landscapes etc. 
I know very little, basically nothing about cameras so have a few questions. 
I have been looking at the Nikon D3300 which is around £389, and hadn't factored in the wide lens... 
My friend recommended the sigma 10-20mm which is around £250... 
My questions are, given my situation, what are my best options? With the body itself, there is the slightly more expensive D5500 and I imagine slightly cheaper versions - is it worth getting a cheaper/more expensive body if it means a better lens? What sort of "trade-off" between body and lens do I want? 
The kit lens on all dSLRs start at wide angle. 18mm is good enough for some landscape shooting. If you want more, the 10-20mm will do great at around 12-20mm. Lower than that is fisheye and the extreme distortion may no longer be good for landscape shots.

While your friend is correct about getting a wide angle lens, the lens itself will not fit into your budget. 

You need an entry level camera like the D3300 or D5500 with the standard 18-55 mm lens. This lens is the one you will use most while you learn how to use your camera and learn the fundamentals of photography. This process an take a year or more depending upon how much time and effort you put into it. 

Yes, a wide angle zoom like the 10-20 mm Sigma or 11-16 mm Tokina may fit into your budget, but spend some time getting used to your camera before spending any more money on lenses. 

The Nikon D5500 has a feature that many people like and that is the fully articulated LCD screen. Good to use when your camera is low to the ground, high above your head or mounted on a telescope or microscope. 

The D5500 also has more focusing points (39 vs 11 on the D3300) These extra focus points can come in handy if you are shooting sports or other action. 
Black Camera Frame Surrounding Holder Cover & Lens Fix
The D5500 also has built-in WiFi and a built-in interval timer, necessary if you ever intend to shoot time lapse video and can connect to your smart phone. 

When I got my first digital SLR, I had to save my pennies a while longer before I could budget for my Nikkor 12-24 mm lens. Within about ten months, I was able to buy that lens and it is with me all the time.

Consider the body to be the part that allows you to take photos in a larger variety of situations. Consider the lens as part of that equation as well, but in terms of sharpness, it is the lens and not the body that affects sharpness. 
Sigma's 10-20mm is a good lens for landscapes, architecture and interior shots too. The D3300 comes in a kit, but it might also be available body only. If so, then getting the body only allows you to choose the specific lens or lenses that you need. Most who get entry-level DSLRs get the kit. While the kit lens is just okay for general shooting, there are others that are best for certain things. That's where the Sigma 10-20mm comes in. It would be a good additional lens, but not a good choice as your one and only lens. Nikon makes many zooms that are optically superior to the kit lenses. Go to photozone.de to see how sharp each lens is. 
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So go with whichever body provides the capabilities that you need to get the shot, and get the lens for the type of shots you want to take. If, for example you want to do sports or wildlife photos, then will not only need a camera body with a better continuous AF than that of the Dxxx series, but the lenses that allow to get in close to. Landscapes are different. Mountains don't move, si servo AF is useless, but having more megapixels and a ultra wide zoom is the way to go. Portraits, like landscapes, do not require serv. AF, but a good telephoto with a fairly large aperture. So a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 are great options and the body doesn't really matter much. 
As a beginner, it common to start of with basic gear for general photography. Once you gain experience, you will then know if and when it is time to upgrade to something else.

I often get crap for recommending that people buy used cameras and lenses, but in my opinion, there is no point in buying a new camera if you have a tight budget. The D3300 truthfully doesn't give you a huge amount of bang for your buck, and there's no way you can afford an optically decent wide angle lens on top of it. 
MPB photographic is a great website for used gear. I've done a check for you, and here are a list of potential combinations for you; 
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-Nikon D90, excellent condition, shutter count 22,368 (virtually nothing), £214 
-Tamron 10-24mm Nikon fit lens, excellent condition, £229 

or 

-Canon 50D, excellent condition, shutter count 28,059, £229 
-Canon EF-S 10-18mm, near mint condition, £189 

and with either package, you still have a little money left over for other accessories. 

Point being, there are options out there if you want good gear on a budget. You shouldn't settle for less when you can get more-you just need to know where to look.

Inverters

The frequency inverters use for control the motors and the DC/AC invertes using for convert the DC voltage to AC voltage. 

Inverters convert DC electricity into AC electricity. Solar panels (and most small wind turbines) produce DC electricity. That electricity is used to charge a battery bank in off-grid systems or sent directly to an grid tie inverter which feeds the electricity directly to the electric grid. We offer some inverters which are capable of both working as an Off-Grid and an On-grid inverter.
Garmin Nuvi 1410 1410T FULL LCD Screen Display

Hybrid Inverters 
These inverters are primarily used for grid-tie purposes but also have the added feature that they provide backup power to your home / office when the electric utility fails. 

Off-Grid Inverters 
These inverters are principally meant to be used with solar for a home or business totally disconnected from the electric utility company. They can also be used for providing emergency backup power to homes that currently use the power from an electric company. Inverters with the built-in AC charger option are particularly well suited to providing seamless backup power. 

Grid-Tie Inverters 
Inverters which are connected to your electric utility company and do not use a battery bank. These "grid-tie" systems tend to be lower in cost due to the fact that they don't use batteries. However, if the utility company's power goes down then your system will also shut down. If blackouts are frequent in your location or you want to have backup power, consider purchasing an inverter that is Hybrid. 
5-Inch Innolux AT050TN34 V.1 LCD Screen Display Ecran TFT

A devise used to convert direct current into alternating current.

Inverter - It is used for saving a power in battery. Inverter are very useful for tamilnadu especially chennai.

In terms of electrical power, an inverter converts direct current (DC - as in batteries) to alternating current (AC - as in what is present at electrical outlets). 

An inverter would be used in a car, for example, to run an AC-powered "appliance" (laptop computer for example) in the absence of an AC outlet.
Garmin Nuvi 1450 1450T & 1460 1460T Full LCD 

2015年6月3日星期三

Electronic projects

I've made several projects with Arduinos, and for my latest project, I decided to buy a 128x64 LCD (not OLED) from China. With previous LCDs, they always took care of the hard stuff for you. They had a separate chip on board (probablynot a shift register, but an MCU - thanks. that allows you to communicate via serial, and you only needed 2 pins to do it. This time, though, it's just a  screen, and I have no idea how to use it.
Obviously, this is now beyond my skill level, so my question is how can I make this thing work with fewer pins? I plan on attaching this to a project on an Uno, so I need to reduce the number of pins this screen will take up.
I'm not asking you to do my homework for me, though. I really do want to learn more about whatever I need to know to make this work, so if you can suggest some reading, or other similar projects where someone explains how this is done, that would be greatly appreciated.
After all the projects I've done with Arduino, I really want to get into more advanced stuff, so I figured this would be a good first step towards learning more about what's going on behind the black curtain, so to speak. I've never really dug into library files, and I've only done a few small analog electronics projects, so I'm hoping this will be a good stepping stone to getting there.
When I got my degree we did not learn how to read data sheets. You just had to figure it out yourself. Make no mistake about it, finding, reading and understanding data sheets is an important part of "low level" engineering. As for finding a library somewhere on the internet and blindly using it may work at some companies and others absolutely not.
If you want to pursue embedded design and programming you probably want to get away from the Arduino software platform and start coding in straight C or C++ using the development tools from Atmel.search in your state with the keyword "arduino". 0 hits in my state. Then search on "embedded". Dozens of hits pop up.
Just to learn, I've taken a few components that I use (chips, mainly) and for which I had a library, and started to figure out the datasheet and see how it matches up with the library. For one of them I've rewritten the library, as the one I had was just a bunch of (badly written) functions and wasn't that easy to use, so I made one that works as a class. I specifically did not look at the original library again when I started programming and used the datasheet for that.
Once you've seen enough of those, I suppose you'll get better at it. Some datasheets totally suck though. I still have a lot to learn.
I have to say that the software was the easiest part for me as I'm a software developer, but even if you aren't it'd be another chance to learn.
Sometimes there are tutorials too that explain a lot more than just how to use it.

GPS talking

So when it was first unveiled at last year's I/O, one of the things they underscored was that Android Auto was deeply integrated with the hardware of the car itself - you're used to using your phone in the car for Google Maps, but why not be able to harness that nice big navigation LCD and the powerful external GPS antenna on your roof?
How much of that is actually a reality here? I understand that it's primarily a video feed / screen cast coming from the phone, but there's clearly some two-way communication happening as well to enable things like touch screen input, the voice button on the steering wheel, etc. Is it taking advantage of the car's GPS antenna? Is it possible to get OBD2-type data via Android Auto, enabling something like Dash or Automatic without the need for a bluetooth OBD dongle? Seems like that'd be a pretty big win for such apps if so.
I frequently baffle customers with PC-problems by the turning it off-and-on again trick level 2: instead of just shutting down their PC and powering it on again, I'll recommend to disconnect the power cord, push the power button, reconnect and then power it on again. This seems illogical to most people, but it makes all capacitors in the machine to drain any residual charge, which puts it in a (more) defined state.
The "have you turned it off and back on?" works for sewing machines, too…much to their users frustration. I’ve had this conversation twice in the last week-two different users, two completely different sewing machines.
Person A brings her machine in, saying that her embroidery function is out of step between its halves; that is, the right half of the ducky/flower/whatever is correct, but the left half is mangled, significantly offset from the right half, or nonexistent. Her machine has an LCD screen, meaning it’s computerized, and she tells me she’s shut it off and turned it on-even unplugged it-several times now, with no luck.
Garmin Nuvi 3790 T 3760T 3750 3790LTM 4.3" Full LCD Screen
I test-sewed it and got the same offset, mangled daisy. I unthreaded it, turned it off, unplugged it, turned it back to on and let it sit a minute. Then I did everything in reverse-turned it to off, plugged it in, turned it on, rethreaded it. Ta da! A nice, non-mutant daisy. I ran through each of the stitch charts, checking to see that I wasn’t missing a step motor gone wonky, and everything was fine. Total time: less than 10 minutes. I explained, and Person A sighed, laughed, and left, shaking her head.
Person B brought her machine in, complaining of major thread barf. (Where the thread turns into a giant wad of loops and tangles on the back of the fabric. There are several causes, but the most common one is 'because'.) Her machine is a cool old Morse 4400, looks like the dashboard of your granddad’s Buick, and is about as far from computerized as you get. I test-sewed it, and got the same wad of tangle. I unthreaded it, took the bobbin case out, put the bobbin case back in, then rethreaded the upper thread path. Test-sewed it again, and it was fine. Ran it through its various stitches, just in case, still fine. Total time: less than 10 minutes. I explained, and Person B sighed, laughed, and left, shaking her head.
Why did either work? In person A’s case, what made the difference was that I shut it off before I rethreaded it. There are sensors in the thread path that detect the presence of thread (for things like setting thread tension), and don’t lose their setting when you shut the machine off. By unthreading it while it was off, and then turning it on, it registered that I was rethreading it and reset all of its internal settings, which solved the issue.
In Person B’s case, who knows? Maybe she didn’t hold her tongue right. Maybe it was my mighty tech aura-that happens too. There are no sensors, and you can see the entire thread path. I’ve seen sewing machine manuals from the 1880’s that tell you your first troubleshooting step should always be to rethread the machine. Person B is certainly experienced enough to have tried it herself before she came to me. But sewing machines are still just machines, and sometimes, for no apparent reason, they just go kablooey. And sometimes, also for no apparent reason, rethreading makes them behave.