显示标签为“Electronic Components; Electronic Parts; Electronic Accessories”的博文。显示所有博文
显示标签为“Electronic Components; Electronic Parts; Electronic Accessories”的博文。显示所有博文

2015年6月9日星期二

Lcd problem

I've got a laptop here, an Acer Aspire 5735, with a bad backlight. So far I've replaced the inverter, cable, as well as the actual LCD, and the backlight still is not working.
I don't know a whole lot about replacing backlights in laptop LCDs, but I doubt this one is broken. I've tried other LCDs with the same connector and even those didn't work right. I have a strong feeling that a fuse may be blown on the motherboard for handling backlight voltage. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience replacing these fuses. Do I need to be trained with microsoldering to replace them? Identifying them should be easy enough, blown fuses stick out like a sore thumb.
Maybe I've been lucky then, but I use ebay quite often for parts and don't have problems like that, but you have to be very careful and stick with well-rated sellers, etc.
Honestly, it's an Acer, one of the most flimsy computers on the market, I'm sure you noticed it while working on it, they're better off replacing it with something.. not acer. I've had acer come not fully assembled and/or DOA more than any brand. Their components aren't bad, intel boards, etc, but case quality is laughable, lowest standard of quality I've ever seen.
And it wasn't ESD because PC SMD's aren't that sensitive anymore, and what is, has proper protection, phones and tablets are different, but in PC's the chances of ESD are tiny these days.
Motherboard fuses rarely have visible signs of being blown out. Only way I know to find the faulty component is doing a continuity check with a multimeter. The fuses I've dealt with tend to be flat rectangles, and are usually bigger than most other components around it. So far, I have had no luck finding the right replacement parts, but I wish you luck.

I blew a backlight fuse once (for an LED screen without inverter) and just bridged it with a tiny ball of solder. Not recommended safety-wise but it was a bodge that got an extra 6 months out of a dying laptop I had hanging around.
Since then I always take the battery out for any screen replacement.
I've been tinkering around with this laptop for almost 2 days now and can not figure out the issue. I'm hoping someone here can help. Here is a link to a picture of what the display is producing, Sorry for potato quality, disregard the vertical lines.
It is a Toshiba Satellite A505-S69803 running Windows 7 64 bit, I purchased the laptop around 5 years ago and has ran like a champ until now. The graphics are integrated if that helps any.
The symptoms are horizontal flickering and rolling lines, it looks as though the display is repeating itself. Sometimes there's only a few lines then other times the screen is almost completely full to the point the video is indecipherable, it seems to be all random with no color distortion. The problem persists in safe mode and bios as well.
So far I have updated drivers, deleted/reinstalled drivers, reseated the LCD cable at both ends, reseated inverter cable, installed new LCD cable, tilted screen all the way up and down with no changes in performance. I'm currently using the laptop with an external monitor through the VGA port, the HDMI port works as well.
I believe I've narrowed it down to the LCD screen, inverter, or a motherboard issue since the graphics card is integrated. I'm leaning more towards the motherboard issue since a bad inverter usually leaves you with a dimmed or blank screen and a bad LCD usually distorts colors.
Is it possible for the graphics chip set to malfunction on the laptop monitor but display fine on the external monitors?
I found an HP DV2500 (DV2660SE) sitting next to the trash, along with a box of misc computer stuff. The charger was in the box, so I grabbed it, and the laptop and took it home. When I plugged it in, it booted to bios, but was missing the hard drive and back plate covers.
As it happens, I have 3 dv6000s that I've collected for parts over the years, which are the same laptop, except with a 15.6" screen, instead of the DV2500's 14" screen.
Over the last month, I ordered the backplate covers and hard drive cage from amazon. Everything finally arrived. I pulled a hard drive and ram from one of the DV6000s, and reassembled the laptop. The laptop appears to work. total cost for a backup laptop $25.00.
I am currently installing windows, but the screen has a serious yellow tint. I have seen this before on old LCDs. I have searched google, but can't find a reason why the screen would be yellow.
My thinking is that either the inverter or the backlight are going bad.
Any ideas? My googlefu appears to be weak, because all I can find are people suggesting that I check my drivers, which it can't be, because even in BIOS the LCD has a serious yelloe tint.

Hey tech, Since this morning my monitor has become pinkish, dimmer and grainier on the left side, like half the horizontal lines are missing or something (FullHD resolution, so it's very noticeable with small text, which is unreadable). I'm thinking it might be close to dying, just wanted your input on this. Also, it's flickering from time to time, so maybe something wrong with the inverter board/power circuits?
It's a LED backlit Philips screen, FWIW.
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , ,

2015年6月7日星期日

LCD about Hero4 Silver vs. Hero4 Black

I am buying my gf a GoPro for her birthday and I am between the Hero4 Silver and Hero4 Black; the debate seems to boil down to the LCD screen functionality.
Do the factory LCD on the Silver and the LCD BacPac on the Black both lose touch-functionality after going below 3-feet deep? I understand that the screen will still work if you go deeper than that, but I am curious if the Silver's screen will still allow you to change settings below 3-feet as I know the BacPac for the Black does not.
If her computer is not very powerful (a laptop with an i5 and poor graphics card), is it even worth getting the Black or would she need a more powerful rig before even considering the Black over the Silver?
Also, I keep hearing people tell me that the Hero4 Silver does not have Wifi; is that true?
Thanks for any help you can offer me!
Unless she's going to be using the videos professionally, there's no reason to get the black. The H4S does everything the Black can, minus a couple of the higher end things like 4k30fps and 1080 120fps and it has the LCD which comes in really handy for framing the shots and looking at the files without connecting with the phone. H4S definitely has WiFi, I can attest to that as well. Using the GoPro Studio, I wouldn't worry about editing too much. Unless you're going to be watching all of your videos on a 4k TV, I would save the $100 and get more accessories/mounts with that instead.
The only thing that I can speak to is that the Silver DOES have wifi. My laptop is an i5 with integrated graphics and the videos play fine, editing is somewhat slow. In my experience, videos will not play over USB, you must copy them first.
In my opinion, I would not buy the 4 silver... the 3+ black is pretty much the same thing minus the lcd screen. I would get the 4 black even if you're not going to use the 4K right away. You can still film 1080p at 120fps which is twice the frame rate as the silver. Also, the silver only does 4K at 15fps which will end up looking choppy. B&H Photo has a deal right now where you can get a free LCD touchback with the purchase of a 4 black... this is what I would get if I were buying right now... also no tax on that.
Not sure about your questions about the lcd functionality at depths... sorry.
If you have the lcd running the whole time then it probably drains the battery fairly quick. However, you don't need to have it running the whole time, you can turn it off and on to just use it when you want (compose shots, review footage, etc.)
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签：

Canon 85mm lens good

Hey guys, i am about to purchase some 85mm lens by canon. i was looking at the 1.8f. however, as i made the search, i noticed there are two 1.8 options. one is $349 and the other is 365. they have different serial numbers...thats all i really see... am i missing something? 

 lens owned: 

-canon 50mm 1.8 
-canon 50mm 1.4 
-canon 60mm (macro lens which are worthless to me...) 
-canon 135mm soft lens 
-canon 18-55mm 

i want to upgrade from the 50mm to the 85mm. I've been shooting with those for 4 years. time to move on:)
3M Sticker Tape Adhesive Repairing For Touch Screen LCD 2mm

 All decent photographic equipment; cameras & lenses have their "own" individual serial number. The serial number is used for identifying purposes. 1. Such as repair: the serial number denotes which lens is YOURS because you listed it on the letter you sent with the lens. 2. The serial number appears (or should appear) on your list of photo equipment you took out insurance on! 
Now the serial number difference has been solved for you, the next important thing especilly for a buyer is the quality rating of the lens. When you purchase from people like B&H Photo or Adorama camera shops in New York they give rating to each used item as to its condition. So what you are missing to use your words is the condition of each lens and the fact that retails can & do set their own prices. Now the next thing to consider is the plac seling the item: Is their rating good as a Amazon seller? I am with contirbutor "retiredPhil". The $349 lens is said to be "new" and hasa USA & Canada warranty (as long as you live in one of these places) I too would make this my choice! 
5 inch LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN33 Innolux Ecra
The most important question is do you need a 85 mm lens? 

Do you have a full frame Canon camera, a 6D, 5D or 1D camera? 

Do you know what a new Canon EF 85 mm f/1.8 costs new? $420. The two links seem to list two different new price lists for the same lens. 

Of course the lenses have different serial numbers. Each lens has a unique serial number. 

Different sellers from time to time sell products for prices less than the manufacturer's suggested retail price (MSRP) 

I would be more concerned that one or both of those lenses are grey market or refurbished ... something that should be stated in the Amazon adverts. 
5 inch LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN34 Innolux
If you do buy this lens, a minor $16 difference in cost is really not much of a big deal

 There's no such thing as a Canon Mark 3. 
Two of the lenses that you have are not even compatible with any of Canon's cameras that have Mark 3 versions. (1D Mark 3, 1DS Mark 3, 5D Mark 3) so it's really not clear what you own. 

And going from 50mm to 85mm is not an upgrade. It's just a different focal length. 

But yeah, they're the same lens.

 Those two lenses are the same lens - two sellers, two slightly different descriptions of the same lens, and two different prices. Amazon is a market place, everyone selling stuff on Amazon has their own prices. 

Every single product in the entire world, that has serial numbers, has a different serial number for each item made. Perhaps you live on a different planet? 
Touch Screen Digitizer For AT050TN33 & AT050TN34 V.1 5-inch
What on earth makes you think an 85mm is an "upgrade" to a 50mm lens? These lenses have completely different focal lengths, one is not better than the other! It would seem you are clueless. And by the way there is no such camera as a Mark 3. You missed out the model number - is it a 1D, 5D, 6D? 

"I've been shooting with those for 4 years. time to move on" - I have lenses which I have owned for 32 years, and which I still use. Lenses can last a lifetime. It's not "time to move on". It's time to learn what your lenses are for, and the difference between different focal lengths, and their uses. 

"lets not be idiots here" - seriously!?
NOKIA 6120C 6300 E71 E63 N95 Loud Speaker
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： ,

2015年6月3日星期三

Electronic projects

I've made several projects with Arduinos, and for my latest project, I decided to buy a 128x64 LCD (not OLED) from China. With previous LCDs, they always took care of the hard stuff for you. They had a separate chip on board (probablynot a shift register, but an MCU - thanks. that allows you to communicate via serial, and you only needed 2 pins to do it. This time, though, it's just a  screen, and I have no idea how to use it.
Obviously, this is now beyond my skill level, so my question is how can I make this thing work with fewer pins? I plan on attaching this to a project on an Uno, so I need to reduce the number of pins this screen will take up.
I'm not asking you to do my homework for me, though. I really do want to learn more about whatever I need to know to make this work, so if you can suggest some reading, or other similar projects where someone explains how this is done, that would be greatly appreciated.
After all the projects I've done with Arduino, I really want to get into more advanced stuff, so I figured this would be a good first step towards learning more about what's going on behind the black curtain, so to speak. I've never really dug into library files, and I've only done a few small analog electronics projects, so I'm hoping this will be a good stepping stone to getting there.
When I got my degree we did not learn how to read data sheets. You just had to figure it out yourself. Make no mistake about it, finding, reading and understanding data sheets is an important part of "low level" engineering. As for finding a library somewhere on the internet and blindly using it may work at some companies and others absolutely not.
If you want to pursue embedded design and programming you probably want to get away from the Arduino software platform and start coding in straight C or C++ using the development tools from Atmel.search in your state with the keyword "arduino". 0 hits in my state. Then search on "embedded". Dozens of hits pop up.
Just to learn, I've taken a few components that I use (chips, mainly) and for which I had a library, and started to figure out the datasheet and see how it matches up with the library. For one of them I've rewritten the library, as the one I had was just a bunch of (badly written) functions and wasn't that easy to use, so I made one that works as a class. I specifically did not look at the original library again when I started programming and used the datasheet for that.
Once you've seen enough of those, I suppose you'll get better at it. Some datasheets totally suck though. I still have a lot to learn.
I have to say that the software was the easiest part for me as I'm a software developer, but even if you aren't it'd be another chance to learn.
Sometimes there are tutorials too that explain a lot more than just how to use it.
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , ,

The best camera for taking selfies and pictures of people

Nikon and Canon and several other brands make good cameras at various price levels. You presumably need one with a "front screen" so that you can line up your selfies well.
 LMS350GF12 -015 LMS350GF12 -REV0 LCD Screen Display

The Canon G7x could be a good choice. Excellent image quality. The LCD flips up for selfies. Tilted up 90 degrees it can be good for photographing others without looking too obvious that you are taking their pictures. Lack of a remote control connection is a shortcoming.

With a 1/1.7" sensor, the Nikon P7800 is better than bridge cameras, not as good as the super-premiums like the G7x. Articulating LCD, 28-200mm zoom range, hotshoe, and compatible with infrared remote.

A DSLR with articulating LCD could be okay. A bit heavy and awkward for selfies. A left-handed hold could work. A wrist strap is recommended. Op/Tech USA makes one suitable for DSLR's.
 The Nikon D5500 is probably the lightest DSLR body that has the articulating LCD. 

LCD Screen Display For Garmin Nuvi 1350 1390 1350T 1390T 1690 4.3-inch TFT( Vervion 1--LQ043T1DH01) 
 Remember to use peripheral vision to see the LCD, but look into the lens if you want to look like you are looking at the person looking at the picture.

It's against the law to shoot people with a cannon , except in North Korea...
I think Walmart sells a selfie phone just for that purpose.
If you're not really interested in photography , you won't need anything better...

There's no one best for everyone. I've known people to get rid of their $3,000 DSLR for a cheaper one from another brand because of a feature or two that is critical for their needs. You state that you want to take selfies and pictures of people. Well, that's something that just about any camera will do, and do well.

LQ043T1DH42 LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel 4.3-inch TFT 

 In your case, we can lower the number of options by looking at which are not good for your needs. For example, you really shouldn't even consider a DSLR for taking selfies. It's far too big and bulky. You can also eliminate any camera that doesn't have a fully-articulated LCD screen which is a must-have feature for selfies.
Next, since you want to take pictures of people, what makes one better than another? In short, it's the size of the sensor. As the sensor size increases or decreases, so does the required focal length of the lens for any given angle of view. This change has an affect on image quality in that as you decrease the size of the sensor, your lenses become physically shorter. For example on a camera with a sensor of only 1/2.3" (bridge cameras and smartphones) a 20mm lens has the same angle of view as a 112mm lens on a full-frame 35mm format sensor. So what's the big deal? As the focal length of the lens decreases, the area that you get in focus (Depth of Field) increases. Therefore, someone using a a 1/2.3" format camera will find it impossible to blur out backgrounds which is what you really want to do when taking people pictures.
So this narrows your options to those cameras with a larger sensor (buy the largest one you can afford) and one with a fully-articulated screen. Nikon and Canon do make great stuff, but that's not to say that they make the best of all types and models at all price points. Sony, Pentax, Olympus, and Fuji are also fantastic cameras. All of these 6 brands have cameras that will be the best for certain users. 

Garmin Nuvi 3790 T 3760T 3750 3790LTM 4.3" Full LCD Screen 

Your criteria of selfies and people is rather narrow. What else do want to do? Do you need exposure control? With cameras that have a 1/1.7" or smaller sensor, you tend to not get exposure control as these are typically simple point and shoot cameras. However, once you're in the Micro 4/3, APS-C formats, then you're getting a much more serious camera with far more control over the image-making process, much better image quality too. I think that the Micro 4/3 format could be the perfect blend of control, image quality, and size too. In M43 cameras, Panasonic and Olympus are your best options.

I'll agree with some of what Frank and Ned say. The DSLR is a good way to go Vs a phone; picture quality is way better. (I guess you could consider a small point a shoot but you would not be able to use the LCD screen as much so less you NEED a very small item, put a pin in that idea)

Large sensor is good but full size is just a LOT to spend; the smaller formats will give you a lot of bang for the buck.

Touch Screen Digitizer For TomTom tom One V3 3rd Edition 3.5-inch Ecran Tactile 
 I got a DSLR with an articulated LCD screen and it is great for selfies and covert shots. I had used a Hasselblad so I did not have to "look like I was taking a photo" in the direction of someone, but that old thing just made too much noise and what are yea going to do with 120 film today.....so that LCD screen is great to help you now put a camera in a way that it does not make it look like you are taking a photo and/or just get a great angle.

Another item that you may will wish to have is a GOOD zoom lens; I got one that went from 18 to 200mm and it will allow you get that close selfie with the wide angle and has enough flexibility to compose just about any group on the street if that is what you are talking about with pictures of people. Maybe think about a 10 mm fisheye as a next lens; it will be wild and wide for hand held group shots, selfies, and let you get a lot in the field with you in the foreground. Granted you have to see what it looks like as it is not for everyone.

LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel For A050FW03 (400) V4 V.4 5-inch TFT 
 One other thing the Nikon has is the ability to pick faces and focus on them in an auto mode. This is good for focus and exposure.

When I've got the Nikon D5300, it is going out of production and the D5500 as Ned noted would be a good pick. However, I've got no clue what you have as personal needs and some time in a store with a good salesman would give you some real world knowledge and the feel in the hand need to make a confident choice. I had been a lifelong Canon guy and only went with Nikon last fall when picking based on some features and what I hoped was an open mind but I still feel a bit of a brand trader.

The best choice is one you make the features I suggest may be found on a number of brands.    
5 inch LMS500HF06-002 LCD Screen Ecran panel 
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , , ,

2015年5月22日星期五

Why no border-less LCD screens for multiple desktop users like coders, gamers?

Custom Audio/Video installer here. (Well, I was for 10 months. School starts Monday so I just had to quit). I've installed a few systems from Planar that are more-or-less border-less (2x2 arrays and several digital mosaics). They make them, they just aren't very common. There are difficulties involved in making sure there is no pressure around the LCD screens as well when they have no border. We generally keep to the 1/32" rule when we install them super close.
Installation of these systems is a much more involved process than many would realize. The mounting systems are tricky even for a static wall placement, much less some kind of mounting system that is conducive to gaming/desk work.
EDIT: I've worked with anything from 20" 1:1 aspect ratio screens to 56" panels in arrays. I've also installed arrays with IR sensor borders that instantly turn the array into a touch screen.
Here's another example of a stylized mosaic that we recently installed at a university. 
I'm not sure why, but they wanted it like this. I will admit that it turned out working much better than I expected. If you play a video with a car driving across, it all lines up and your brain kinda fills in the missing parts. We used an excel spreadsheet at very high resolution and different color/number cells to line everything up once we installed it on the wall.
there's always an annoying border that breaks continuity, I've seen many video walls out there, why not make a borderless LCD screen? it doesn't have to be all four borders, maybe just the lateral ones. I'm sure the market would definitely go for it.

I'm a programmer of a video wall software (that will remain nameless) and have thus worked with many video walls and helped out at installations. The biggest problem I've seen with the borderless LCDs is like you said, any sort of bang, knock, or pressure can damage what is a very expensive screen to begin with. On a project that was 3x9 55" screens (two storeys tall) they had to swap out 9 screens before they were all working correctly.
Former display scientist here.
Ok so a modern LCD is a series of layers, a cover plate, several layers of polarizers and DBEF films, the LCD proper, more polarizers and films, then the light source.
Holding the whole thing on the sides prevents stressing the LCD. If you lack a bezel you need to put the stress on the LCD and films which overtime will cause the entire thing to die as the pixels go. Not to mention that the LCD panel generally has the electronics on the edge of the panel because those layers make it so only the sides are accessible.
There's various schemes out there to make an overlap. But generallly its moving everything to the top and bottom bezels.
Truly bezeless monitors require putting the inputs to the LCD drivers in the optical layers and would degrade performance. We can make the Bezel's really small, but we can't get rid of them with LCD's.
Emissive displays like OLEDs can in theory eliminate them, but they've got other issues.

It'd be nice, but as a relatively new dual monitor owner, really the only time it seems like much of an issue is when I'm looking at my dual monitor wallpaper, which is a small fraction of the time I use my computer.
If there are any games that support dual monitor use, borderless monitors would be almost required unless you have three monitors, depending on the type of game, but I haven't yet encountered a game which can be displayed on both monitors simultaneously.
Also have duals at my software development job; there the borders don't hinder/bother me in the slightest.
Former dual monitor user for a long time, but no longer desktop owner here. There's a setting somewhere where you can basically make windows treat them like one big monitor. Taskbar spans entire desktop, maximize maximizes across both etc. This makes any game run dual monitors. Good for some RTS, likes sins lf a solar empire (not StarCraft though, need to see the whole screen at once fire that), terrible for any FPS.
I don't remember where that setting was, I think it was in nvidia control panel (had an nbidia card). It was annoying most of the time though, because usually I had one app maximized on one screen and internet and command line on the one with the start menu
Everyone who doesn't actually work in the display industry needs to stop trying to comment on why they don't make these.
Bezels are used for many purposes. One is protection (glass edges are very fragile). The rest are due to how these panels are made. They're manufactured on glass sheets more than 2 meters on each side. Each display is cut out of these sheets. All routing wires, bond areas, occasionally thin film circuitry, etc. need to be placed on these glass panels around the display area itself.
The primary reason LCD monitors need bezels (borders) is: LCD panels consist of more than a single layer of material. They are not glued together for obvious reasons. Without the bezel (the border), there would be nothing holding these multiple layers in place.
They also have a bezel so:
  • You can carry and move the LCD screen without putting finger prints all over the place
  • LCD panels are made of a glass-like material. For transportation purposes, more packaging (and special handling) would be needed to protect the edges as even a tiny chip would cause a problem. This all adds to cost for a monitor that only a small niche market would be willing to pay for
  • Touch Screen Digitizer For TomTom tom one xl Canada 310 4.3-inch Ecran Tactile
This means that at the edge of the light emitting part of the display, you need area on the glass for: circuitry, wiring, gluing, and cutting. That adds up. They're very, very, very good at it, and only getting better, but with current tech you're still looking at at least a 1 to 2 mm frame around your emitting area where you can't place a pixel (and more on at least one side for bonding a flex PCB). There are research ideas and patents on ways around this, but they're still in R&D at the big display companies.
So a bezel is there for structural and packaging reasons, but also because there's a necessary region of dead glass around every single display that they want to cover up. Trust me, as soon as a company can solve these issues, you'll see bezel-less displays on the market immediately.
Source: someone who actually works in making display backplanes and attends the top conferences.
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , , , , ,

2015年5月21日星期四

GPS Advice from riders...

100% on the protective clothing.. I dropped my bike twice this trip.

Once when I had to make way for a small pickup coming up a slippery hill.. I had to move to the edge and when I went to get back on the track.. The front tyre slipped on the moss covered stone.. 
LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For Garmin Oregon 450 500 550 550T

Another one where I 100% screwed up and looked at the rut rather than where I was going.. The top of the rut was slippery from the morning damp..
Bike landed on my boot and I wouldn't get out with the angle of the hill and the rut.. A local helped to lift the bike so I could get my left foot out.. 
That was the same ankle I fractured when even greener than now and had touring boots on and dropped the bike in Northern Thailand..
LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel For TX09D83VM3CEA REV.E Hitachi 3.5 inch TFT

On both cases above.. I had body armour, under pants with armour to protect the legs and tail bone and knee guards boots etc etc..

I felt nothing on each occasion.. The second drop my elbow hit the deck hard.. The body armour took the hit and I was fine..

Would hate to have had any serious or minor issue there.. It can take hours or most of a day to complete some trails of 100 + km..
Garmin Nuvi 285 285W 255W 255WT LCD Screen Display Ecran Tactile 4.3-inch TFT

 Nothing will ruin your holiday faster than a slow speed spill and a nice case of road rash. 

Scary how easily little scrapes get infected in the tropics and how fast infections can spread. 

If you get banged up in a remote part of Cambodia do you think you'll find quick access to proper medical care?

There's those who have been down and those who are going down. Everyone goes down sooner or later so dress for the crash and avoid the rash!
5-Inch Innolux AT050TN34 V.1 LCD Screen Display Ecran TFT

  I was also curious, we are coming from Australia to Cambodia in a week, i have bought my own boots and helmet... would you recommend buying armour, pads etc???? i was thinking to just ride in a t shirt , shorts with boots, goggles and a helmet.... is this a bad idea?
Garmin Zumo 400 500 LCD Screen Display Ecran Tactile (79mmx*64.5mm)

 I am an entry level rider, i have only done a 2 week tour on my own, of Laos(on a honda baja 250) 2 years ago. It was a spur of the moment trip during a visa run. i had such a good time, me, my brother and a mate are going to do cambodia for 3 weeks in december this year. I am going a bit more prepared this time. I know there are alot of GPS's on the market. What are members opinions on which is the best to buy? I dont want to spend more than $400 aus, on one, but i would like to get a decent one as im sure i will be making regular bike trips to Asia from now on. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Garmin Nuvi 200W 205W 250W 255W 255WT Touch Screen Digitizer 4.3-inch
cheers
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , , ,

KeepingTouch

The largest selection of laptop/cellphone/cemera/car/desktop/notebook/GPS/MP3/USB/Invertor Card accessories at the lowest price, leading electronic manufacturing wholesaler, Worldwide Shipping, China Wholesale, One World One Price!


Keepingtouch.com has been manufacturing and exporting various Mobile Phone Antennas since 1991. Taking advantage of our own professional Antenna Chamber, high frequency Network Analyzer equipment, rich experienced R&D and well trained production, Keepingtouch

wins great reputation from the world wide customers. Nowadays, we design more antennas to meet the market demand. They are for GSM/CDMA/TDMA...Telecom devices, Wireless LAN devices, GPS devices, DVBT devices, Bluetooth devices, RFID devices...etc. Keepingtouch

also produce RF connector and RF cable assembly as well. You can have a RF total solution from Keepingtouch. On the other hand, Keepingtouch also has another business division that is in charge of producing and exporting consumer electronic products. Our product

lines include Mobile Phone Accessories, Computer/ Laptop/ PDA Accessories, Game Accessories, GPS Solution Devices, Wireless Security Devices for Car/ Home use and so on. Our strict QC procedure, rapid shipment service and ideal retail packaging always bring you

wonderful sales. Keepingtouch welcomes any custom-made specification. Please contact us any time for your OEM/ODM projects. ...
http://www.keepingtouch.com
发帖者 时间： 没有评论:
标签： , , , , , , ,
订阅： 博文 (Atom)