Is the Canon G7x worth of my money

I want a small canon camera for vlogging and photography and such. This has the flip screen like I want, and is the right size. But it's $600+ so is it worth it? Also, if you know of any other cameras that are small (like a point and shoot size. Pocket sized) and have a flip screen but aren't crazy expensive.
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It seems it has the critical features you need. It should be worth it then. Bear in mind that for video, use a camcorder and for pictures, use a camera. They are different.
I have a G7x. It's nice, not perfect. Compact enough to fit in a belt pouch, although a fairly large one. I got a Lowepro Portland 30, now discontinued. It actually can fit into a Portland 20, but not with a Manfrotto 200PL quick release plate left on it. At 24mm very good center sharpness but some noticeable corner softness. Very sharp at 100mm. Less noise than a 1/1.7" sensor camera, but more than a Micro Four Thirds. The high ISO noise reduction can be turned down a notch from the default, but not as much as I'd like, so even at ISO 400 there is a little smudgy noise reduction artifact. No hot shoe--price for being compact. Some controls are a bit too sensitive. Easy to turn video button (Digitizer Glass Lnes  Lenovo A7 50 A3500) on or off by accident. 
It has in-camera, one touch HDR buried in the Image Effects (creative filters). It really doesn't seem to improve dynamic range at all. I have seen that feature in the Panasonic ZS50 work much better. 
It can do HDR the old-fashioned way. Shooting a tripod mounted, manual exposure, three shot bracketing series in RAW, and processing them in Digital Photo Professional. The DPP version that works with G7x RAW files requires Windows 7 or later--no Windows XP. Older versions of DPP that work in Windows XP won't open G7x RAW files. No CD in box. DPP is available hidden in canon.com site LCD Display Digitizer HTC-One-M7  if you register camera online and enter serial number to get your DPP download. 

The G7x lacks a viewfinder. Some say that's awful. Actually I have found that the tilting LCD allows some positions where the camera can be eld close to the torso, shielding out the bright direct sunshine, So that's not the kiss of death to me. 

The built in microphone has good clarity, if there is no wind. A slight breeze brings noticeable wind noise. There is no outlet for external microphone. 
The G7x has a reputation for running down batteries quickly. If the touch screen function is turned off, it doesn't. The touch screen could be good to have in some situations. It can allow quick accurate autofocus. The face detect autofocus usually works well. 
Some reviewers write that if touch screen Lenovo S8 S898T is turned off there is no manual selection of an autofocus point other than the center. Not true, but the trick is kind of buried. Going deep down into the menu to "Set Ring Func button", that can be custom set to enable the autofocus point with the controller. 

Exposure time up to 250 seconds, but really if light is dim enough to require more than 60 seconds at base ISO, there is a lot of hot pixel noise. No long exposure noise reduction cycle. 

In P or A setting, slowest time is 1 second. If you need more you have to switch to Tv for up to 15", or M for up to 250" (but as stated above not really useful at that long an exposure).

From a photographer's viewpoint, the G7X is a great little compact camera with a large sensor, touch LCD Screen-Panel, and good zoom. For vlogging, not so much. A camcorder would be much better -- and much cheaper.
As a camera for shooting still images of your friends, neighbors, family and travels, yes it is. 

But you want to vlog. For that you need a nice camcorder. JVC, Panasonic, Sony and Canon make excellent camcorders which shoot Full HD video. They all have articulated LCD Display Panel KCG057QVLDG-G220 KCG057QVLDG-G210 KCG057QVLDG-G77's and good optical zoom lenses 

What you will have to add, no matter what camera you chose is a sturdy tripod, fluid head, good lighting (one key and one fill light that are at least 500 watts) and an external sound recorder like the Zoom H1 or H4n to record pristine sound. Still cameras with a video feature are notorious for producing very poor sound and the same goes for any video camera that does not have XLR audio inputs (typically these cost from $7,000 and up) Back Battery Door Cover Housing Repair For Asus PadFone Infinity A80

Computer Blank After Auto Repair (boot up, Windows 8.1)

My girlfriend has had this computer Tomtom tom XL IQ Routes Édition LCD Screen Display for 2-3 years now and her audio was being delayed today so she thought doing a good old reboot would fix it up. She restarted it and the HP logo popped up and took a noticeably long time to get past it. However, once it finished, it popped up a blue screen for half a second and then started something called Windows Auto Repair. After it started that up, her monitor went blank and her cursor was on it but nothing was happening.

She have Windows 8.1 and she would HIGHLY prefer not to lose all her files as her internet is very slow and she has family photos on it.

Try accessing the BIOS and booting up in Safe Mode.

Well firstly see if it will start in Safe Mode, if it does then great because you can try to get Windows to diagnose the issue or at least try get the family photos and other personal files off the system 5.0 inch LCD Screen For Tomtom Tom Tom XXL .

Well then I don't think you can fix your laptop without giving it to an expert. The only thing that you could probably do is try to save those pictures and any other personal files by recovering the data from your hard drive. However could you tell me why you can't access the BIOS?

I never used Windows 8 so I never knew about that issue, but I see that you're correct. Also I only now realized that UEFI BIOS (which is what I always used) differs from a normal BIOS LCD Screen Display Ecran Tactile + Touch Screen and you can't turn on Safe Mode in it.

Well I can think of one way of forcing Safe Mode to turn on on it's own, but some people would probably advice against it since it can corrupt/delete some files, but in this case they already seem corrupted. Now this never caused anything on my system to get corrupted/deleted but I'm just letting you know that there's a slight chance of it happening and I don't want to be held responsible for it.

What you have to do is shut down the laptop while it's booting up. This way Windows will notice that the computer did not boot successfully and it should take you to the Advanced Options boot menu. There you can select Safe Mode. The best way to do this would be to take out the battery LCD Screen Display Panel Archos 101 MID 10.1" inch  from the laptop and remove the charger cable to shut it down quickly.

I got into the BIOS but it has no option to do with Safe Mode. I think you're misusing the name BIOS. I think what you're looking for it Advanced Startup Options. I can't get to it since it's a Windows 8 computer Hannstar 4.3 inch H-H043L-07A LCD Screen Display Ecran  and the bootup is too fast to register F8 and Shift F8.

I've actually shut if off multiple times while booting with the power button and nothing has happened. Would unplugging it make a difference (this is a desktop btw)?

Edit: I see my last hopes being in a CD I have for Recovery but I don't see CD Drive or Hard Disk or anything like in my Boot order... All I see is USB Hard Drive LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel For A050FW03 (200) , USB Floppy/CD, Boot Manager and a few other things. Do you know what's up with that?

Edit 2: It also said something about Legacy sources being disabled, perhaps that's the Hard Disk and CD drive POWER BOARD For EADP-57BF A? But in order to enable it, it says I must disable Secure Boot Up or something like that and I didn't know if that was safe to do... >_<

particular gaming monitor or brand that helps reduce lag

I'm trying to increase my sniping efficiency and overall K/D. It would be nice to minimize as much lag as possible. Right now I'm on a 46 inch and I'm pretty sure there's a good visual delay. Also do you recommend a particular size that's not too small but not too big for PvP. I figure you don't want to be squinting to see your oppomets but you also don't want to look to far from the center of your screen to your radar.  LCD Inverter Kit PCB For TDK CXA-0374 PCU-P159A

*edit: A couple of users have asked

I know everyone talks about gaming monitors having 1-5ms but what do TVs have on average? I'm using a 42" LCD 1080p TV 

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that's around 8 years old but still kicking. Would it really make that much of a difference?

Does this suddenly make you an all-star? Nope. But it goes a long way in improving some bad habits.

The simple fact of having a smaller and higher rez display makes you much more aware of your surrounding, which is crucial.
You begin to get desensitized to all the fancy things these monitors can do after awhile but the

minimal input lag is obviously great. I could not believe I played on a TV for as long as I did.
 I got the same monitor Touch Screen Digitizer For Acer E100 E101 C1 Tactile a few months ago. It helped a lot. The only problem I had was when I went

on vacation to my in laws and had to go back to playing on a 55" 'smart' tv. It just felt so laggy

and slow.

I don't know if it has "game mode" I know in the visual settings there is a game setting along with a movie setting and sports setting. I always choose the vivid display because the colors are intense and I think it looks super nice. Especially when I'm watching sports and other programs filmed live. It looks great for story modes too. But I'm sure it's not the best for PvP
Modern nice expensive TVs have a great deal of post processing built in. That's where much of the input lag comes from. A well implemented game mode will bypass most or all post processing. In my experience, and most tests, it does. If you really want to get into it you can read the methodology and explanations at displaylag.com. Of course the gain, if any, will depend upon the specific model you are dealing with.

I play on a 70" LED Touch Screen Digitizer For Acer be Touch E110 Tactile. I snipe just fine. It may be better to play on a smaller screen; but damn it, I have a huge TV, I'm going to use it.

i can strongly recommend the "eizo foris f2333" - it is/ was a bit heavy on the price when i bought it a few years ago, but well worth it and your can somehow feel the quality...
i had the chance to compare it to many gaming monitors from my friends and we came to the conclusion that the foris was the best one. It has some nice gaming related features as well and an input lag of 2 ms....their might be a new version of there gaming monitor Garmin ASUS A10 LCD Screen Display Panel  series...invest once and and have no problems for the next 8-10 years...
i would recommend a size of 21-23 inch(?) max.
e: grammer

Highly recommend Benq RL2455. It's not expensive and perfect fit for consoles (too slow for PC).
Also, various websites have measured it's response time and documented the settings to reduce motion lag.
Note motion lag is due to your eye movements on newer LCD screens Touch Screen Digitizer Glass Panel that has a fast refresh. See displaylag.com for more info. (I am not affiliated with them)
I run a BenQ but they are expensive. Most gaming monitors will do though. Just make sure you actually do your research. Most people think response time refers to input lag, but response time is the time it takes the color to change (blur). Not the time it takes for your screen Samsung Galaxy S3 SIII i9300 Protective Glass Camera  to show your input.
ASUS are very good, I have one and I love it. Forget about Game mode, all it does it adjust the brightness, contrast etc and that's it (with monitors... TV's are a different matter). Consoles cannot make use of gaming button gadgets. What you want to look out for is the response time. You want 1ms and no higher. Also the ps4 runs at 60 herts and 1080p so there is no point in buying a 4k monitor with 144 herts refresh as it will be down sampling. Mine is a 27" and I sit 2.5 ft away from it.
Not necessarily. If I gave you an F1 car, would you drive any better than in a Mustang? Likely not. You wouldn't be able to take advantage of the available power and handling. Same goes here. Especially so with monitors Eten Glofiish DX900 Touch Screen Digitizer Tactile  with higher than 60Hz refresh rates because the console simply doesn't even render higher than that.
TN is Twisted Nematic. IPS is In Plane Switching. PLS is Plane To Line Switching. VA is Vertical Alignment.
The important ones are TN, IPS, and PLS with IPS and PLS being nearly identical for this topic.
What you get with TN is superior refresh rates and black representation (light shining through the pixels can simply be turned off for true black). What you get with IPS/PLS is crystal clear accuracy in color representation (except black because the lights cannot be turned off) and superior viewing angles (178°).
There are other nuances, but for amateur gaming, an IPS/PLS monitor LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For Garmin Oregon 200 300  is superior due to its other advances in technology. You will never notice the difference between 1ms and 3ms response times, nor will the slight difference in black representation impact your gaming.

No brand is really better than the others. Most, in fact, use the same screens and just have different housings.
All you're really going to need is good contrast (for spotting players) and response times (for lower input lag) on a 1080p monitor LCD Touch Screen Digitizer For Garmin Oregon 450 500  with minimum 60Hz refresh rate. Xbox One and PS4 will never need more because they will never output more. Most run 720p 30fps anyhow.
There're some nuances among TN, IPS, PLS, and VA. For those of us who aren't professional gamers, an IPS or PLS monitor will be perfect for everyday use with excellent color representation with slightly worse contrast. If you happen to be AEGabriel tier or play as a professional CS:GO player, a TN panel is your better bet.

I played on a 60" TV and even though I tried, Crucible wasn't enjoyable. I bought a 27" BenQ monitor and I noticed and instant improvement. Like others say it doesn't make you a god overnight. The smaller screen Touch Screen Digitizer For TomTom tom XXL IQ 5-inch  and sitting closer seem like huge benefits for me. I haven't played on my big TV since.

MSI repair part Warranty Problems

Location: Malaysia, but warranty rights should effectively be the same.
So I recently sent my laptop for repair LCD Screen Display + Touch Screen Digiti, after having it for a year and a few months. My warranty is covered for 2 years, and these are the terms of the warranty. When I sent it for repair under warranty there were some problems that were not covered, and the total bill was calculated at RM968.84 (236.13 USD).
Not being well off I complained because I was quoted ~600 before for just the cracked screen, and not every other problem, especially the LMS350GF20 LMS350GF20-002 LCD Screen service charge (No service charge unless I decided not to repair the screen). It got escalated to a Service Specialist and we had some back and forth about the problem. I hit a brick wall until I remembered the defect my computer had within a week of purchase, which coincidentally was related to the LCD screen that was now cracked. I originally told them about it and all they told me to do was to try and install drivers, until I wasn't able to exchange it 1 for 1 (1-week window). I mentioned this, and that I wanted the defect to be repaired and not the crack, but because it was cracked it now wasn't eligible.
I decided to call to see Garmin Zumo 450 550 LCD Screen Display if we could get somewhere since emailing was slow and getting nowhere. The representative kept focusing on the cracked screen, even though I kept bringing up the defect. I had to mention how opening the screen normally was how it originally got cracked, and how I didn't abuse it, although that didn't matter since it still isn't covered by warranty. After calling and reinforcing my position, we got somewhere. Let it be known, although I was fairly unfriendly in my phone Tomtom Tom XL IQ LCD Screen Display  call, I was never irate or abusive toward the representative in any way.
When I sent the email with all the evidence (the video and the receipt), her response with very snarky, but I finally got some recognition.
They replied after the weekend saying that they couldn't acknowledge the warranty, but they could reduce the price on the parts by ~20% for each piece. I feel the representative was very snarky again in her reply, and her claim about the review 3 times makes no sense given the video has been viewed 3 times (1 mine, 1 hers, 1 ?) since then.
So of course it wasn't exactly what I was hoping for GPS Navigon 8410 LCD Screen Display + Touch screen Panel , I got something. The thing is I still can't do anything about it since I can't afford the costs right now. I also feel like them offering a discount acknowledges that they know there was a problem though so I don't know if I should reject and pursue anything more.
I tried to condense it all since it was fairly lengthy. If you need more information about anything just ask me and I'll tell you.

My question would probably have to be, does the original TOMTOM XL IQ Routes LCD Screen Display Panel+ Touch Screen Digitizer LMS430HF19-003 defect have any basis for getting the warranty, or does the cracked screen now make it not eligible like the representative claims. Since the screen still works with the crack, but the other problem persists, shouldn't they still have an obligation to fix the other issue even with the crack?

Sorry, I didn't actually mention this in the original post, but this is relevant information that could change what you just said.

When I first noticed the problem, it was pretty serious and I in fact complained about it. The people that sold me the laptop ran out my time that I could use to exchange for a completely new laptop. They had me try to install drivers (multiple times), and do useless things that did not result in my laptop getting fixed. After that week was up they wanted me to send it for warranty, which I couldn't do at the time.

The reason I got the laptop PCU-P077E CXA-0271 TDK LCD Inverter For 10.4-inch Kyocera LCD Screen was for work as my previous one had died and without a computer I'm unable to do anything. My employer shelled out the money for me to purchase a new one, and having to wait 2 weeks for it to be fixed was out of the question. So I lived with it. Now when I finally have the chance, I sent it, but unfortunately between then and now I got the crack by opening it, normally mind you, and now the original problem is void.Touch Screen Digitizer For Garmin Nuvi 1490 1490T 5-inch Ecran Tactile

Sure you could say I'm taking advantage of the situation and acting it bad faith, but they also did the same when they gave me the run around back when I initially said something to them.

The problem you're going to have is that consumer rights in fact vary quite a lot between countries, and nobody here is going to be familiar with Malaysian law.16GB Samsung Class 10 Micro SD card

If I were in the company's position, I would say (and quite correctly, based on your post) that the only reason you're worrying about the original defect is because you broke the screen and want it fixed for free. Since that defect wasn't bad enough to pursue at the time, you're acting in bad faith, and I'm not going to replace the LCD Screen Display Ecran Panel for free now that you've broken it.

I'm not a lawyer, and I'm not confident I could point out Malaysia on a map, to be honest.

Lcd problem

I've got a laptop here, an Acer Aspire 5735, with a bad backlight. So far I've replaced the inverter, cable, as well as the actual LCD, and the backlight still is not working.

I don't know a whole lot about replacing backlights in laptop LCDs, but I doubt this one is broken. I've tried other LCDs with the same connector and even those didn't work right. I have a strong feeling that a fuse may be blown on the motherboard for handling backlight voltage. I was wondering if anyone here has any experience replacing these fuses. Do I need to be trained with microsoldering to replace them? Identifying them should be easy enough, blown fuses stick out like a sore thumb.

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Maybe I've been lucky then, but I use ebay quite often for parts and don't have problems like that, but you have to be very careful and stick with well-rated sellers, etc.

Honestly, it's an Acer, one of the most flimsy computers on the market, I'm sure you noticed it while working on it, they're better off replacing it with something.. not acer. I've had acer come not fully assembled and/or DOA more than any brand. Their components aren't bad, intel boards, etc, but case quality is laughable, lowest standard of quality I've ever seen.

And it wasn't ESD because PC SMD's aren't that sensitive anymore, and what is, has proper protection, phones and tablets are different, but in PC's the chances of ESD are tiny these days.

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Motherboard fuses rarely have visible signs of being blown out. Only way I know to find the faulty component is doing a continuity check with a multimeter. The fuses I've dealt with tend to be flat rectangles, and are usually bigger than most other components around it. So far, I have had no luck finding the right replacement parts, but I wish you luck.

I blew a backlight fuse once (for an LED screen without inverter) and just bridged it with a tiny ball of solder. Not recommended safety-wise but it was a bodge that got an extra 6 months out of a dying laptop I had hanging around.

Since then I always take the battery out for any screen replacement.

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I've been tinkering around with this laptop for almost 2 days now and can not figure out the issue. I'm hoping someone here can help. Here is a link to a picture of what the display is producing, Sorry for potato quality, disregard the vertical lines.

It is a Toshiba Satellite A505-S69803 running Windows 7 64 bit, I purchased the laptop around 5 years ago and has ran like a champ until now. The graphics are integrated if that helps any.

The symptoms are horizontal flickering and rolling lines, it looks as though the display is repeating itself. Sometimes there's only a few lines then other times the screen is almost completely full to the point the video is indecipherable, it seems to be all random with no color distortion. The problem persists in safe mode and bios as well.

So far I have updated drivers, deleted/reinstalled drivers, reseated the LCD cable at both ends, reseated inverter cable, installed new LCD cable, tilted screen all the way up and down with no changes in performance. I'm currently using the laptop with an external monitor through the VGA port, the HDMI port works as well.

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I believe I've narrowed it down to the LCD screen, inverter, or a motherboard issue since the graphics card is integrated. I'm leaning more towards the motherboard issue since a bad inverter usually leaves you with a dimmed or blank screen and a bad LCD usually distorts colors.

Is it possible for the graphics chip set to malfunction on the laptop monitor but display fine on the external monitors?

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I found an HP DV2500 (DV2660SE) sitting next to the trash, along with a box of misc computer stuff. The charger was in the box, so I grabbed it, and the laptop and took it home. When I plugged it in, it booted to bios, but was missing the hard drive and back plate covers.

As it happens, I have 3 dv6000s that I've collected for parts over the years, which are the same laptop, except with a 15.6" screen, instead of the DV2500's 14" screen.

Over the last month, I ordered the backplate covers and hard drive cage from amazon. Everything finally arrived. I pulled a hard drive and ram from one of the DV6000s, and reassembled the laptop. The laptop appears to work. total cost for a backup laptop $25.00.

I am currently installing windows, but the screen has a serious yellow tint. I have seen this before on old LCDs. I have searched google, but can't find a reason why the screen would be yellow.

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My thinking is that either the inverter or the backlight are going bad.

Any ideas? My googlefu appears to be weak, because all I can find are people suggesting that I check my drivers, which it can't be, because even in BIOS the LCD has a serious yelloe tint.

Hey tech, Since this morning my monitor has become pinkish, dimmer and grainier on the left side, like half the horizontal lines are missing or something (FullHD resolution, so it's very noticeable with small text, which is unreadable). I'm thinking it might be close to dying, just wanted your input on this. Also, it's flickering from time to time, so maybe something wrong with the inverter board/power circuits?

It's a LED backlit Philips screen, FWIW.

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Touch screen and display monitor

Recently got a Planar Touch Screen LCD ( PCT2265), but as it turns out, it only works as a touch screen and that means that connecting a mouse or keyboard disables the touch feature. I hope I'm asking this in the right place, so is there any way someone can recommend a Touch screen that accepts different inputs without disabling the touch functionality?
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Why does the sound have to go through your monitor? I assume that the monitor is HDMI and your laptop is sending both audio and video over that connection.

You should still be able to connect to the headphone/line out on the laptop, just be sure to select the correct playback device in your audio properties.

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If Windows 7, right click the speaker icon in the taskbar, select "Playback Devices". You should see the default playback device listed as "Digital Audio (HDMI)", right click another device (likely labeled "Speakers" or "Headphones") and select that as your default playback device.

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If you are serious in to music production, I highly recommend you get an outboard audio interface, my go to is the Focusrite Scarlett Series. If you have no need for balanced output or things like MIDI, will work just fine.

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I just bought a LG 27MP75. It's just a big LCD monitor, so I can have a bigger screen and work (music production). Normally I have my speakers hooked up to my stereo receiver, and stereo receiver plugged right into my laptop headphone jack, and everything's golden.

Now, instead, it has to plug into my monitor, and there's this TERRIBLE his / background noise coming from it, and anytime the bass hits it causes distortion. I've tested this out on my speakers and headphones.

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Is there any way around this? Or do I have to return this? I'm asking here in case any audiophiles use LCD's and have run into this problem. Maybe I caught a bad batch? Or this is the norm?

Screens usually put out around 5500k light, which is close to the color of the sky on an average clear day. This is so that it matches the fluorescent lighting used in offices all over the world.

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"Daylight" like that can keep us awake and alert even late at night. You can use an app called f.lux that will change the color temperature of your screen over the course of the day, reducing the amount of blue as it gets later in the day,.

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LCD about Hero4 Silver vs. Hero4 Black

I am buying my gf a GoPro for her birthday and I am between the Hero4 Silver and Hero4 Black; the debate seems to boil down to the LCD screen functionality.

Do the factory LCD on the Silver and the LCD BacPac on the Black both lose touch-functionality after going below 3-feet deep? I understand that the screen will still work if you go deeper than that, but I am curious if the Silver's screen will still allow you to change settings below 3-feet as I know the BacPac for the Black does not.

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If her computer is not very powerful (a laptop with an i5 and poor graphics card), is it even worth getting the Black or would she need a more powerful rig before even considering the Black over the Silver?

Also, I keep hearing people tell me that the Hero4 Silver does not have Wifi; is that true?

Thanks for any help you can offer me!

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Unless she's going to be using the videos professionally, there's no reason to get the black. The H4S does everything the Black can, minus a couple of the higher end things like 4k30fps and 1080 120fps and it has the LCD which comes in really handy for framing the shots and looking at the files without connecting with the phone. H4S definitely has WiFi, I can attest to that as well. Using the GoPro Studio, I wouldn't worry about editing too much. Unless you're going to be watching all of your videos on a 4k TV, I would save the $100 and get more accessories/mounts with that instead.

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The only thing that I can speak to is that the Silver DOES have wifi. My laptop is an i5 with integrated graphics and the videos play fine, editing is somewhat slow. In my experience, videos will not play over USB, you must copy them first.

In my opinion, I would not buy the 4 silver... the 3+ black is pretty much the same thing minus the lcd screen. I would get the 4 black even if you're not going to use the 4K right away. You can still film 1080p at 120fps which is twice the frame rate as the silver. Also, the silver only does 4K at 15fps which will end up looking choppy. B&H Photo has a deal right now where you can get a free LCD touchback with the purchase of a 4 black... this is what I would get if I were buying right now... also no tax on that.

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Not sure about your questions about the lcd functionality at depths... sorry.

If you have the lcd running the whole time then it probably drains the battery fairly quick. However, you don't need to have it running the whole time, you can turn it off and on to just use it when you want (compose shots, review footage, etc.)

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